Hi fiber friends! I am writing this a few days before Valentine’s day and I have already seen so many bunnies for Easter! I love bunnies, I think they are such a timeless sweet gift for babies, toddlers, and children in general. Heck, I am an adult and I love them! So today, I am bringing you a little insight into my latest design, The Snuggle Bunny. It is my first of my woodland Snuggle collection, and I am so excited about it! It doesn’t require safety eyes so embroidery is required for the face but totally optional. I will follow up on this as we go. 😉
The first thing I want to talk about is the yarn. I have a few go-to yarns for amigurumi. There are people who side with acrylic and some that prefer cotton. Neither is right or wrong. You have to make that decision based on what you like. My recommendation is to try some acrylic. My kids play with their plush toys I have made them throughout the years and they have held up so well! I have in the past and currently used Red Heart Super Saver they have great color choices, they are at a great price point and they have that softness but still with a little stiffness when worked up. Craftsmart is a line of yarn I found at Michaels and is what I used for this bunny in particular. It looks really nice to work with. I used Off White.
For the Bunny Carrot purse that has been one of the best parts of this bunny pattern because it’s pretty darn cute if I do say so myself! I will be honest and say I didn’t plan on using cotton yarn for the purse, I was shopping my stash and found this bright orange and green that were intended for pumpkins but never got around to it. Coincidence? I think it was fate and I love it! I used two small cotton skeins from peaches and cream that I found at my local Walmart. They have a cute new label which I also love. Acrylic would work just as well! This is just what I had on hand.
Bunny measures approximately 12.5 inches* long from the top of the head to the legs. *different yarn weights and tensions will alter the size.
For my snuggle collection, I wanted to take it back to when I first started crocheting and making dolls. I didn’t use safety eyes, I used acrylic yarn which works well too but years into this craft I have really much-preferred embroidery thread. They hold up well and don’t pill if you need to take off and re-do the eyes as I do lol. They come in SO MANY pretty colors. I used Black/Brown for the eyes and a metallic Pink Amythyst for the nose. I think the metallic really adds life to the bunny’s nose. It’s so cute, I love it!
I use and recommend G 6 – 4.00mm crochet hook. I like using my Susan Bates with the small wooden handle on it. It has a really good hook to grab yarn when working tightly. I have a very tight tension especially when it comes to making amigurumi. It’s really important to keep those single crochet stitches as tight as possible so the Poly-fil doesn’t show thru. If you find it too loose try going down a hook size or two will help with that.
POLY – FIL
Important material when making amigurumi. I don’t have a specific brand I use, usually something I can find easily at Walmart or a local craft store. Even Amazon has them too! Make sure when using poly-fil with these dolls not to overstuff but do put enough to help shape the doll. I do the most in the neck area, the bunny is worked up in one piece so the neck must be supported, and making sure there is a lot of poly-fil there will keep the head from being a little floppy. I only stuff the arms about 3/4 of the way so they lay nice and not too stiff.
So the bunny is worked up starting with Leg #1 and Leg #2. They are both then joined together and you work up your way through the body, neck, and head of the bunny. So it is all in one piece to minimize sewing body parts. Arms, ears, and face embroidery are done separately and everything comes together quite easily.
I have created a youtube video that demonstrates how I personally join the legs to my amigurumi HERE is the video if you would like to have a look.
This is optional but I LOVE applying a little flush to my amigurumi cheeks. It adds some warmth and tenderness and I think it is adorable! I use cosmetic grade blush. I use elf products, there are so many options in the market to make sure you are happy with the ingredients that it has if gifted to babies and children. My kids have enjoyed and hugged their dolls with no issues. It will need to be reapplied in time, so that is something to keep in mind if you decide you want to add some blush.
Thank you for taking your time to read this. I hope it gives you an insight into why and how I worked up Snuggle bunny. If you have any questions leave them down below or find me on Instagram @arianaehall. I would to see and share your bunny on my social media!
- G 6/ 4.00mm crochet hook
- Medium Worsted weight (#4) yarn
I used :
Craftsmart (Michaels) – Off White
Black/Brown Embroidery thread – for Eyes
Metallic Pink Amethyst Embroidery thread – for Nose
Green and Orange for purse-
I used Bright orange & Rosemary Peaches & cream
- Yarn needle
- Stitch markers (highly recommend this extra piece of yarn works great) X2
- (Optional) Pins to help with ears and arms placements.
- (Optional) Blush or paint for the cheeks. Add a little at a time.
CH – chain
ST – stitch (stitch space)
Sl St – slip stitch
SC – single crochet
FLO – front loop only
SC INC – single crochet increase (2 sc in the same st)
SC DEC – single crochet decrease
INV DEC – invisible SC decrease ( decrease using FLO)
F.O: fasten off
MC – magic circle / magic ring
Read Before beginning:
- STITCH MARKER – You will be working in rounds so keep a stitch marker close to use when working up the doll. Unless otherwise stated to CH and turn. They will mark the 1st st of each round.
- TENSION – Make sure you use a tight enough tension to help close any “holes” a loose tension may cause. I crochet yarning under then Over to create a tighter stitch. Go down a hook size if needed. ( my tension is naturally tight)
- ASSEMBLY – The amigurumi is worked up by first making two legs, joining them together, and working up the body and the head in one piece. Arms, ears, mouth, and rose are separate.
- BLUSH (OPTIONAL)– This is optional but you could also use blush to add some sweetness to the cheeks. I use cosmetic grade blush using a dense small brush and little at a time. I have heard paint, fabric crayons, and wax doll crayons work as well. I used Blush.
- PATTERN– (EX. *SC in 8, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (36) ) You will end that round with the second step of what that round instructs. This will vary.
Pattern LEGS #1  – with main color (Off white)
START HERE – Make 2
6 SC in MC
Round 1 – SC INC. in each st (12)
Round 2 – *SC in 1 st, SC INC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (18)
Rounds 3-22 – SC in every st to the end. (18) (20 rounds)
[For Leg #1. CH 1 after you make the last st, leave a long tail and fasten off.]
Continue to make Leg #2. Remember DO NOT fasten off. Continue to JOINING instructions when finished with Leg #1 & Leg #2. Keep stitch marker in both.
JOINING both legs
[Both of the pieces have a total of 18 sts each + 4 sts made. After Round 23, you will have a total of 40 sts.]
I have created a youtube video that demonstrates how I personally join the legs to my amigurumi HERE is the video if you would like to check it out.
Round 23 –
- Leg #2 – Chain 2
- SC in Leg #1 where the stitch marker is (1st st from the last round made)
- SC around Leg #1 (18 sts)
- SC in one loop of each of the 2 chains made. (2sts)
- SC around Leg #2 (18 sts)
- SC on the other side of the 2 chains made. (2sts)
Total of 40 sts made.
Continuing to the shaping of the body:
Round 24 – 40 – SC in every st to the end (40) (17 rounds)
Round 41 – *SC in 8, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (36)
Round 42 -*INV DEC, SC in 7. Repeat from * to the end. (32)
Round 43 – *SC in 6, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (28)
Round 44 – *INV DEC, SC in 5, Repeat from * to the end. (24)
ROund 45 – *SC in 4, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (20)
Round 46 – SC in every st to the end. (20)
Round 47 – *INV DEC, SC in 3. Repeat from * to the end. (16)
Round 48 – SC in every st to the end. (16)
Round 49 – *SC in 2, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (12)
Round 50 – *INV DEC, SC in 1. Repeat from * to the end. (8)
Continuing to shaping the Head:
Round 51 – SC INC in each st to the end. (16)
Round 52 – *SC in 1, SC INC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (24)
Round 53 – *SC INC, SC in 2 in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (32)
Round 54 – SC in every st to the end. (32)
Round 55 – SC in every st to the end. (32)
Round 56 – *SC in 3, SC INC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (40)
Rounds 57 – 64 – SC in every st to the end. (40) (8 Rounds)
Round 65 – *SC in 3, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (32)
Round 66 – *INV DEC, SC in 2. Repeat from * to the end. (24)
Round 67 – SC in every st to the end. (24)
Round 68 – *SC in 1, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (16)
Round 69 – INV DEC 8 times. (8)
Fasten Off leaving a tail long enough to sew closed the top of the head.
Step 70 – Weave your needle with the tail, through the front loops of all 8 sts, pull to close the center, secure with a knot, and weave in the end.
Arms – Make 2
[Insert poly-fil only about 3/4 of the arm, being careful not to overstuff.]
6 SC in MC
Round 1 – SC INC in each st to the end. (12)
Rounds 2 – 19 – SC in every st to the end. (12)
Round 20 – *INV DEC, SC in 1 (8)
SlSt to the next st and fasten off, leave a long tail long enough to sew on the side of the body.
Ears – Make 2
6 SC in MC
Round 1 – SC INC in each st to the end. (12)
Round 2 – SC in each st to the end. (12)
Round 3 – *SC in 1, SC INC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (18)
Rounds 4 – 21 – SC in each st to the end. (18) 18 rounds
Round 22 – *INV DEC, SC in 1, Repeat from * to the end. (12)
Round 23 – SC in each st to the end. (12)
Round 24 – INV DEC 6 times (6)
SlSt to the next st and fasten off, leave a long tail long enough to sew on the head.
Face Embroidery before attaching the ears:
With the Metallic or Embroidery thread color of your choice, start with the nose first after the body and arms have been sewn on.
This will help you center the nose. I go over each line 3 times to enhance the thread. As shown below. Securing with a knot and weaving the ends.
Using the Black/ Brown color create a semi-circle first for the closed eyes and six eyelashes. Secure with a knot and weave in the ends inside the head. With needle or hook.
Use pins to decide on the placement of ears, slightly behind the head with ears down.
Sew on ears (seamless join)
Secure with a knot,
weave in the end.
Bunny Carrot purse:
Make 2 – Start with Orange
Row 1 – SC INC in the 2nd CH from the hook. (4) CH 1, Turn
Row 2 – SC in each st to the end. (4) CH 1, Turn
Row 3 – SC INC, SC in 2, SC INC. (6) CH 1, Turn.
Rows 4 – 7 – SC in every st to the end. (6) CH 1, Turn after each row. FO at last row.
Sew both pieces together, leaving the top open, secure with a knot, and weave in ends.
Join green yarn – and SC around the top of the purse, SC in the same st as the first SC. CH 30 for the strap and fasten off. Leave a long enough tail to secure the strap on the other side. Secure with a knot. Weave in all the ends.
SC 3 times in the 2nd chain from the hook.
SC 2 times in the next st.
Keep Alternating to make the curl and it will twist when done.
Leave a long enough tail to attach the curl to the center of the purse. Weave ends.
Lift the ears insert the purse, wiggle down the head, and lift one arm and through the purse.
Thank you for stopping by!
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