TULLY THE TIGER – AMIGURUMI PATTERN

I asked my daughter to help with my next pattern and when I received my purchase order of Retro Stripes she said she wanted a rainbow tiger and I loved the idea! I got to work and I LOVE how it turned out! The stripes are 12 of them but they work up in seconds each one. Using the retro stripes yarn I know it would be a fun surprise to see how the colors will work up. This was my first time using it. I pulled the yarn from the inside of the skein and started with the legs, body, and head. I made the decision to make the pieces in the order I felt the colors that I was pulling will look best. For me that was Making the tail, then the ears, then the arms. Feel free to switch that up if using another ombre skein. I thought it was fun and I felt extra creative placing colors all around! Retro stripes by Red Heart have been very challenging to find. I found mine on Herrschners.com and had a pleasant shopping and shipping experience.

Tully measures approximately 12 inches from the top of the ear to the bottom of the legs. 

I hope you all enjoy making Tully the Tiger as much as I did! Don’t forget to Pin the photos to your boards to save the crochet inspiration for later!

I have linked how to join the amigurumi legs specifically for round 23. I walk you through exactly how I do it! How to Join Amigurumi Legs Video

Subscribe to MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL to watch videos I post showing you steps on how to make certain parts of the dolls and more!!

Feel free to post pictures of your finished projects and/or links to your shops so all can see! I love when you tag me @arianaehall on all social media!

Please, no sharing pictures or patterns are allowed. Feel free to make as many to sell and gift. I just ask to give credit to Ariana Hall. Thank you!

How to Join Amigurumi Legs Video

Materials:
  •  E 3.50 mm crochet hook
  • Medium Worsted weight (#4) yarn

I used :

Red Heart Yarn in Retro Stripes – Approximately 123 yards needed. (color lots vary)

Black Yarn for stripes and mouth

Pink yarn for the nose

  • 2 – 10 mm safety eyes (optional – bigger ones would look adorable too!)
  • Yarn needle
  • Scissors
  • Stitch markers (highly recommend this extra piece of yarn works great for working in the round) X2
  • Poly-fil
  • (Optional) Pins to help with ears and arms placements.

Abbreviations:

Stitches:

CHchain

ST – stitch (stitch space)

Sl Stslip stitch

SC – single crochet

FLO – front loop only

SC INC – single crochet increase (2 sc in the same st)

INV DEC – invisible SC decrease ( decrease using FLO)

Other:

F.O: fasten off

MC – magic circle / magic ring

Read Before beginning:

  • STITCH MARKER – You will be working in rounds so keep a stitch marker close to use when working up the doll. Unless otherwise stated to CH and turn. They will mark the 1st st of each round.
  • TENSION – Make sure you use a tight enough tension to help close any “holes” a loose tension may cause. I crochet yarning under then Over to create a tighter stitch. Go down a hook size if needed. ( my tension is naturally tight) **sizes may vary depending on tension. 
  • ASSEMBLY – The amigurumi is worked up by first making the body and head together with decreases and increases. Safety eyes and mouth are added before the head is finished, arms, tail ears, and then stripes will be sewn on at the end.
  • STUFFING – When using poly-fil make sure to use it to shape your amigurumi. For this one, you want the body and head a bit dense so it keeps its shape and looks fuller. Especially in the neck area. Insert light poly-fil to tail and arms.
  • BLUSH (OPTIONAL) This is optional but you could also use blush to add some sweetness to the cheeks. I use cosmetic grade blush using a dense small brush and a little at a time. I have heard paint, fabric crayons, and wax doll crayons work as well. Using some light pink yarn and going over two stitches, just below and slightly off-center of the eye, go over the same spot twice to create the blush as I did in the photo with the bee above with some pink in the cheeks. 
  • PATTERN (EX. *SC in 8, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (36) ) You will end that round with the second step of what that round instructs. This will vary.

Pattern LEGS #1 &#2 – 

**If you would like to see how I join both legs, watch the video HERE.

START HERE – Make 2 (Stuff as you go)

6 SC in MC

Round 1 – SC INC. in each st (12)

Round 2 – *SC in 1 st, SC INC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (18)

Rounds 3-22 – SC in every st to the end. (18) (20 rounds)

[For Leg #1. CH 1 after you make the last st, leave a long tail and fasten off.]

Continue to make Leg #2. Remember DO NOT fasten off. Continue to JOINING instructions when finished with Leg #1 & Leg #2. Keep stitch marker in both.

JOINING both legs

[Both of the pieces have a total of 18 sts each + 4 sts made. After Round 23, you will have a total of 40 sts.]

How to Join Amigurumi Legs Video

Round 23

  • Leg #2 – Chain 2
  • SC in Leg #1 where the stitch marker is (1st st from the last round made)
  • SC around Leg #1 (18 sts)
  • SC in one loop of each of the 2 chains made. (2sts)
  • SC around Leg #2 (18 sts)
  • SC on the other side of the 2 chains made. (2sts)

Total of 40 sts made.

Continuing to the shaping of the body: (Stuff as you go)

Rounds 24 – 38 – SC in every st to the end (40) (15 rounds)

Round 39 – *SC in 8, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (36)

Round 40 – *SC in 7, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (32)

Round 41 – *SC in 6, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (28)

Round 42 – *SC in 5, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (24)

Rounds 43 – 44 – SC in every st to the end. (24) (2 rounds)

Round 45 – *SC in 4, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (20)

Round 46 – *SC in 3, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (16)

Round 47 – *SC in 2, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (12)

Continuing to shaping the Head: (Stuff as you go)

Round 48 – SC INC in each st to the end. (24)

Round 49 – *SC in 2, SC INC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (32)

Rounds 50 – 51 – SC in every st to the end. (32) (2 rounds)

Round 52 – *SC in 3, SC INC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (40)

Rounds 53 – 60 – SC in each st to the end. (40) (8 rounds)

FACE

  • Place safety eyes between rows 58 &57 – 5 stitches apart.
  • Embroider the nose using pink yarn in an upside-down triangle shape.
  • With Black yarn make a vertical line starting at the bottom of the nose and down three rows for the mouth. 

Round 61 – *SC in 3, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (32)

Round 62 – *SC in 2, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (24)

Round 63 – *SC in 1, INV DEC in the next. Repeat from * to the end. (16)

Round 64 – INV DEC 8 times. (8)

Step 65Weave your needle with the tail, through the front loops of all 8 sts, pull to close the center, secure with a knot, and weave in the end.

Safety eyes, nose, and mouth.

Tail – 

Note: insert poly-fil every 5 rounds or so. Make sure to not overstuff. 

8 SC in MC

Rounds 1 – 20 – SC in every stitch. (8) ( 20 rounds)

Slip stitch in the next st and fasten off leaving some yarn long enough to sew the tail to the lower back of the tiger.

Tail placement

Arms –

Note: insert poly-fil every 5 rounds or so. Make sure to not overstuff. 

8 SC in MC

Rounds 1 – 15- SC in every stitch. (8) ( 15 rounds)

Round 16 – INV DEC, SC in the next, INV DEC, SC in the next, INV DEC – ( 5 )

Slip stitch in the next st and fasten off leaving some yarn long enough to sew them on Tully just below the neck.

Ears –

6 SC in MC

Round 1 – SC INC, SC INC, SC in the next 2 stitches, SC INC, SC INC – ( 10 )

Rounds 2 – 4 – SC in every stitch. (10) (3 rounds)

Slip stitch in the next st and fasten off leaving some yarn long enough to sew on top of Tully’s head slightly forward.

Ears.

Black Stripes – Make 12 

Chain 11

Slip stitch down the chain and fasten off ( 1o sl st’s) leave a long tail, enough to sew the stripes on Tully.

I used my extra yarn needles as pins to hold and make sure where I wanted the stripes to go.

Three on each side of the face about 1 -2 rows apart.

Three stripes on each leg on the side. 3-4 rows apart.

stripes

Thank you for stopping by and checking out Tully the Tiger crochet Amigurumi Pattern! I love making and sharing these patterns with you all! Don’t forget to Pin for later and share with your crochet friends!

Feel free to post pictures of your finished projects and/or links to your shops so all can see! I love when you tag me @arianaehall on all social media!

Please, no sharing pictures or patterns are allowed. Feel free to make as many to sell and gift. I just ask to give credit to Ariana Hall. Thank you!

Subscribe to MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL to watch videos I post showing you steps on how to make certain parts of the dolls and more!

Pin for Later 🙂

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